Already one of the most sought-after fashion designers worldwide, Raf Simons announced the SS23 collection would be the final season of his namesake company (Nov 21).

Born in Belgium, he worked as a furniture designer and serving as an intern at fellow Belgian Walter van Beirendonck’s design firm, Simons established his business in 1995. He quickly rose to cult status for his youthful collections that demonstrated his natural talent for distilling ideas from the underground music and art scenes into instantly recognisable minimalist silhouettes. His use of streetwear-friendly shapes and references to won the likes of Marc Jacobs, Rihanna and the late Virgil Abloh.

After 27 years, he made the shocking announcement online as he shared: “I lack the words to share how proud I am of all that we have achieved. I am grateful for the incredible support from my team, from my collaborators, from the press and buyers…”

In honour of this news, we take a look back at his first and last London debut.

Despite his minimalist approach, Simons’ collection was one of the most eclectic to date. The designer typically sticks to a concept; for example, FW22 offered ominous, nightclub-ready ensembles, while SS22 gave basics and tailoring a schoolboyish twist. But SS23? Under the ambiance of a techno nightclub, a mash-up of rave influences, ’80s punk allusions, and subverted tailoring came together.

View the part of the collection above.